The Ottoline Pattern - Merchant Mills

The Ottoline is a boxy workwear jacket with cuff and side seam splits and inside pocket. Although a lovely design detail the vents are a little tricky, so we have included instructions to simplify Ottoline by excluding the side seams and sleeve vents if you like.

We have found that a heavy duty thread rather than a topstitch thread gives a more authentic look to the topstitching and is easier to use. You may find you get a better stitch using a matching 'sew all' thread in the bobbin.

All seam allowances are 1.5cm unless otherwise stated.

Skill level - experienced, but not doing the slits on the hip or sleeves would make it a more intermediate level.

Fabric suggestions - 8 - 12.5oz non stretch denim, medium weight cotton drill or canvas, dry oilskin, linen and corduroy. For the lining we would suggest using either our 5oz organic dry oilskin, half panama cotton, or barrier lining. You can see all of these by clicking on the suitable fabrics tab.

We recommend pre washing your denim before sewing. Putting a large piece of medium-heavy weight denim into the washing machine can sometimes lead to white creases in the denim, this is because it is a stiff fabric so it doesn’t have room to move around. We recommend doing the following to help this not to happen:

• Wash your denim on its own for the first wash. You don't need to use detergent if you don't want to.
• Wet the fabric first before putting it into the drum.
• If you can break up your denim fabric into half this will help. Or if you have your pattern already you may be able to break it into smaller parts by looking at the lay plan - leave some wiggle room!
• For the first wash use a delicate 30 degree cycle with a low spin.
• If any white creases develop ironing whilst still damp will help.
• Do not tumble dry.

When you have made your jacket we would recommend washing it inside out.

YOU WILL NEED:

Matching thread.

Buttons - 5 x approx 22mm (7 if you are doing buttons at the cuff).

Contrast top stitch thread optional.